Risotto is a northern Italian dish. In the south, pasta ruled. In the north it was rice and polenta.
The first famous risotto was saffron risotto alla milanese.
Legend Says: In 1574, a Flemish master glassmaker named Valerio di Fiandra was working on the magnificent stained-glass windows of the Milan Cathedral. He had a young assistant nicknamed “Zafferano” (Saffron) because he was famously fond of using the expensive spice to achieve brilliant, glowing yellow hues in his glass.
The Wedding Prank: Valerio’s daughter was getting married, and a grand wedding banquet was planned. Supposedly, as a joke the apprentice convinced the wedding cook to dump a generous amount of saffron into the rice pots.
Mushroom risotto comes from the same northern regions, especially Piedmont, where porcini foraging in autumn forests is a long tradition. It’s a classic fall dish, so you’re right on season.
Ingredients (for 4 people)
These are all estimates.
- Rice (Carnaroli or Arborio): 1½ cups (about 300 g)
- Mushrooms (a mix is good): 4 cups sliced
- Hot chicken or vegetable broth: about 5 cups (1.2 liters), possibly more depending on the rice and how creamy you want it
- White onion or shallots: 2 small onions or 4 shallots, finely chopped
- Garlic: 3 or 4 cloves, minced
- Dry white wine: ½ cup (120 ml)
- Heavy cream: ¼ cup (60 ml), optional
- Butter: 1 to 2 tablespoons
- Extra virgin olive oil: 2 tablespoons
- Grated cheese: 1 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano DOP. These are commonly used, but I prefer Pecorino.
- Fresh parsley: chopped, to taste (optional)
- Salt and pepper: to taste
Procedure
- Prepare the mushrooms: Clean and slice the mushrooms. Heat a little olive oil in a pan and sauté the mushrooms until tender and lightly browned. Add the garlic toward the end of cooking. Transfer to a bowl, including any juices, and set aside.
- Toast the rice: In a large saucepan, heat the remaining olive oil and add the rice. Toast over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring frequently, until the grains are hot and slightly translucent.
- Add the wine: Pour in the white wine and stir until it has almost completely evaporated.
- Cook the risotto: Begin adding the hot broth, one ladle at a time, stirring frequently. Allow most of the liquid to be absorbed before adding the next ladle. After about 10 minutes, add the cooked mushrooms and their juices (reserve a few for garnish). Continue adding broth and cooking until the rice is al dente and creamy, about 16 to 18 minutes in total.
- Add the cream: Simmer a few minutes to incorporate.
- Finish: Remove the saucepan from the heat. Stir in the butter and grated cheese until creamy and smooth. Taste and adjust the salt and pepper.
- Serve: Let the risotto rest for a minute or two. Garnish with the reserved mushrooms and a sprinkling of fresh parsley. Drizzle a little high quality extra virgin olive oil and serve.
